Tactical
Folding
Knives
Folder
'model' concepts can be
viewed HERE
Note that these ideas are now several years old and will not be
produced in the forms shown if at all.
SELF
DEFENSE ISN'T
PRETTY. Neither are my tactical folders
unless
you percieve beauty in thoughtful design and form following
function. Let's face it- the liklihood of needing a folding knife
for self-defense isn't that great but if you do
need a defensive tool you're going to really
need it. That means
that you are going to need to have it with you and in a position from
which it is easily deployed. How pretty it is isn't going to be
an issue.
There are
a lot of fine
handmade and production Tacticals out there,
some of them very well designed. But many 'tacticals' these days
seem to sport a thick but otherwise conventional blade with a
black
coating. Features like ultra-thick, macho-looking blades with
complex grinds,
exotic materials and manly-looking
over-engineered pivots are becoming the fashion.
Fortunately
no one has ever
accused me of being a slave to fashion.
My
tactical folders are
designed for people that are serious about
their knives and serious about self-defense and martial
arts.
Blade shapes are designed for maximum efficiency, handles are
ergonomically designed for a comfortable and secure grip using either
fore-hand or 'ice-pick' grips. Blade steels are selected for
maximum
performance. The 'half-frame' frame-lock construction uses a Ti
'half-frame' incorporating the lock and a G10 half-frame opposite
providing a strong, light-weight knife. The Ti half frame is
covered with a thin G10 scale for greater comfort and to facilitate use
in extreme weather
conditions. Clips are designed to hold the knife securely in a
pocket but also to help provide a secure grip to assist in deployment
of the knife.
My
experience in making and
designing swords has taught me to value
function and high performance and I bring these same values to my
tactical folders. Does this mean that I won't tweak a design to
make it look 'cooler?' Certainly not! But I will never compromise
function merely for the sake of form.
What is a 'Tactical Folder?'
To me a Tactical Folder is the pocket version of a combat
knife. A combat knife is a good, useful knife that is also a good
weapon. The classic Marine Corps Kabar is a good example of this
breed. The design of a combat knife recognizes that it will be
used for non-combat uses most of the time; opening rations, opening
crates of supplies, cutting brush. Similarly a Tactical folder
will get used for opening boxes, letters, slicing string and tape,
cutting food, whittling kindling etc. It will seldom, if ever, be
employed as a weapon. But it might be... so it needs to be
well-designed for that function too. This means that it needs to
be easily carried, easily deployed and properly designed for
self-defense as well as for the myriad other tasks that it will perform
more often.
Armed
Self-Defense and Lethal Force
Needless
to say a knife should be employed for this purpose only when no lesser
level of force will do. You
should use lethal force only when it is so important to stop the
attacker that whether or not they are killed or maimed as a result of
being stopped is a secondary consideration (consult your local laws and
statutes for more details.) Typically the
imminent threat of death or grave bodily injury to yourself or another innocent person is the only
justification for such an action. In cases of armed self defense
there is one goal- to stop the fight as rapidly as possible. This
can be harder than you might expect; if the attacker is on drugs or
mentally disturbed for example. Men bent on performing a sexual
assault often work themselves up to it for days or weeks and can be so
pumped on norepinephrine and adrenalin that no level of physical pain
can be counted on to stop them. The only thing that you can count
on to stop a drugged, disturbed or 'pumped' attacker is
mechanical; if you interrupt the mechanisms that allow the body
to operate it doesn't matter how resistant they are to pain. "If
you cut the strings the puppet can't dance. " We call this
Catastrophic Structural Damage.

prototype EVO-PTF ('Practical Tactical
Folder')
made in early 2010
Why
the
'Chisel Grind?"
I get
asked this a lot and
there are two very simple reasons. It
works and it's easier to make than a V-grind. Note that I
use a 'proper' chisel grind with no secondary
edge bevel. Blades with a 'chisel grind' with a secondary edge to
sharpen them simply don't work right- they have a greater tendency to
push the edge sideways in the cut and the secondary bevel increases
resistance.
Many of
my knives
incorperate the Eccentric Chisel Grind. There are a number of
reasons for this; It is a useful tool for scraping and skiving is not
the least of these reasons. The other is defensive use of the
knife. The way to stop a fight quickly is to do Catastrophic
Structural Damage to your opponent. This means severing major
muscle groups, tendons, arteries etc. Simply put if you cut the
strings the puppet can't dance, no matter how 'pumped' or what drugs
they are on. The blade profiles that I favor are designed to
produce the maximum width of wound-channel with even modest penetration
to increase structural damage to the attacker.
Why O-1,
52100
and CPM3V for blade
steels?
I
consulted some very
smart people that use knives and these
steels are what they recommended. I reviewed the mechanical
properties of these steels and tested them and they worked great.
No- they are not stainless so you'll have to maintain them.
That's OK- People have used carbon-steel folding knives for a couple of
thousand years now and they worked just fine. If
you live in an extraordinarily wet climate or neglect them they can
tarnish or rust.
If you aren't willing to put up with that and maintain them they
probably aren't the knives for you. I have no plans to make
stainless blades for folders at this time.

Why
do
they look... Different?
Many
of my tactical folders look unconventional... even odd. It's not
because I want them to look different, or 'neat-o.' It's because
I have a clear view of what the knife is designed to do and they are
designed to fill those functions as efficiently as possible. The
flat Eccentric Chisel Point allows maximum width of wound-channel even
with minimal penetration. The angle of the blade to the handle
puts the point in-line with the large bones of the arm in the overhand
thrust or perpendicular to those bones in the ice-pick grip, making it
easier and more intuitive to strike with precision. Handles are
designed to be secure in the grip; on more agressively focussed desgns
security outweighs comfort- but comfort is never sacrificed
entirely. Pocket clips are placed not merely to hold the knife in
your pocket but to provide an improved grip when deploying the
blade. Materials are selected for toughness, durability and to
survive adverse conditions.
The conventional wisdom that dictates the design and features of many
modern tacticals has been considered and when appropriate
discarded. I don't care for 'Flippers' or modifications designed
to open the knife as it is withdrawn from the pocket; there is some
debate about the utility of such features among Law Enforcement and
Military personel I have consulted so I don't use them. I use
'cross-tip' screws for assembly because I have used Allen screws and
the standard star-drive screws. They strip easily in the smaller
sizes used for knife handles. Cross-tip screws don't. They
aren't
modern, they aren't sexy. They just work.
I've also departed from the common lock geometry; my geometry is
designed to minimize shear forces on the lock bar and transmit forces
generated against the lock bar along it's long axis to the greatest
degree possible. This isn't because the conventional lock
geometry doesn't work; there are a few million knives out there that
say otherwise! It's just because I think that it's better- and
why wouldn't I do the best way I can think of? Similarly
the location of the lock, pivot and stop pin are 'lined up' to insure
that stresses are equalized across the three rather than being focussed
in a single spot.
The base of the blade on most of my folders has a relatively long
unsharpened area and no choil. When cutting rope, clothing,
seatbelts etc. the choil of some knives can cause them to hang up at
the beginning of the cut. This unsharpened area blends into the
cutting edge so that the material will slide down the blade into the
cutting edge instead. It has the added advantage that while
closingn the blade it is more difficult to cut your thumb or thumb-nail
(sse photo of lock above.)
All the features needed are present of course; there is a detent in the
locking bar to minimise innapropriate opening of the blade. Clips
are of the 'deep-pocket' type for securtiy and discretion.
Phosphor Bronze washers between the pivot and frame help ensure
smoothness of operation and long-term functionality.
To sum it
up my folders are not the
prettiest, most exotic or most finely finished Tactical Folders that
you can buy. They are functional, thoughtfully designed and
carefully engineered tools for utility and self defense provided at a
reasonable cost. Folders made the way I like them with no
apologies. If that has value to you I'll be happy to work
with you to make you a folder that fits your needs.
Care and
Feeding
Care and
Feeding: Performance
has a price- and that price is
maintenance and attention. Screws loosen over time.
Non-stainless blades (like O-1, 52100 and CPM3V) can tarnish and even
rust. If you want to carry one of my folders you are going to
have to pay
attention to
it. If you want something that you can drop in your pocket and
forget about buy a production folder. I am always willing to do
periodic tune-ups and repolishes; usually for the cost of
shipping. If anything goes seriously wrong again, no worries-
your folder is warrantied against failures of workmanship and
materials. If it goes wrong through anything but obvious abuse
I'll fix or replace it. If you need
to seriously abuse it to save your life or someone else's I'll fix or
replace it if you can supply appropriate documentation of the
incident.